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Showing posts with label Designers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Designers. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Nike
The Label
When legendary University of Oregon track and field coach Bill Bowerman shook hands with entrepreneur and college runner Phil Knight, the sleepy town of Eugene, Oregon, would inevitably become the home of Nike, Inc. Bowerman is credited with creating the first lightweight outsole shoe from some latex, leather, glue and his wife’s waffle iron. He and Knight each put up $500 and made and sold 330 pairs of the shoes. From those early successes, Nike was born.
From that first waffle outsole to performance apparel technologies such as Nike Dri-FIT and Nike Sphere React and the innovative design concept of Nike Free, Nike has continued to push boundaries of innovation and inspire athletes around the globe for more than 30 years.
Official Website
www.nike.comYves St. Laurent
Yves Saint LaurentThe Label
The Yves Saint Laurent and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche brands seem to be recovering from an identity crisis that began in 1999, when the luxury label was first purchased by Gucci for $900 million and design direction taken over by super slick Tom Ford. Yves Saint Laurent, who retired in 2002, changed the way women dressed when he launched his label in 1962. He put them in mannish pant-suits with square shoulders, smoking jackets, safari jackets, and tuxedos, but softened the androgyny with billowy peasant blouses and fitted, flouncy couture gowns in dramatic colors. New designer Stefano Pilati is bringing it all back home, returning to those YSL classics and making them staples of the eveningwear and ready-to-wear collection.
The Look
Sexpot in a power suit. Trust-fund bohemian. Red-carpet diva.
The Designer
The current designer is Stefano Pilati, formerly Tom Ford’s chief deputy of the YSL Rive Gauche ready-to-wear collection, and a designer for Miu Miu and Giorgio Armani prior to that. While Saint Laurent kept hold of the couture reins until his retirement in 2002, Tom Ford most recently oversaw design for ready-to-wear. Ford replaced Alber Elbaz, who is now creative director of Lanvin.
Who Wears It
Everyone from long-standing fans like YSL muse Betty Catroux and Catherine Deneuve, to actresses like Renee Zellweger and Chloe Sevigny.
Official Website
yslonline.comYohji Yamamoto
Yohji YamamotoThe Label
Yohji Yamamoto is the most playful of the highly respected Japanese design triumvirate that also includes Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo. Never conventionally sexy or trendy, Yamamoto appeals to clients who appreciate wit, romance, and the history of fashion; his clothes are full of allusions, and he’s as capable of dropping a reference to an Edwardian tea dress in a track suit. Although his palette is somber, he’s never funereal; there’s too much joie de vivre in the floppy, flowing, sensual fabrics to bring down the mood.
The Look
Sculptural, intriguing, often oversize. While black is far and away his predominant color, Yamamoto occasionally throw in zingers like the hot-pink-and-fuchsia coat dress tied with organza that opened his fall 2006 collection.
The Designer
Yamamoto was born in Tokyo in 1943 and studied law before attending the prestigious Bunkafukuso Gakuin design school. He presented his first womenswear collection in 1972 in Tokyo under the name Y’s, and he brought out a higher-priced signature label nine years later in Paris. He had several fragrances as part of his deal with Procter & Gamble. His partnership with Adidas, which started with the fall 2002 women’s collection, created the Y-3 label in 2003, one of the first and most successful of the designer-activewear marriages. In summer 2006, he signed a deal to design luggage and accessories for Italian luggage specialist Mandarina Duck, under the label Y’s Mandarina.
In addition to the admiration of his peers (Donna Karan wears Yamamoto), he’s has acquired numerous awards. He’s the only Japanese designer to receive France’s Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres. Not only does Yamamoto dress a large chunk of the international arts community, he’s also collaborated on film projects with Wim Wenders, Takeshi Kitano, and Ryuichi Sakamoto, and done costumes for the Pina Bausch Company and Wagner’s Opera “Tristan and Isolde” in Bayreuth.
Official Website
yohjiyamamoto.co.jpY-3
Yohji YamamotoThe Label
Not a lot of athletic-apparel companies would let an avant-garde Japanese designer get in the way of their drive toward the bottom-line mainstream, but the collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas has proved itself critically and commercially and inspired similar matchups (Adidas also has a line with Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen has done pieces for Puma). From its first collection, spring 2003, Y-3 was meant to be a real business for both sides, not a vanity project. Adidas shows it on the runway every season (at first in Paris but more recently in New York). A voluminous skirt or a distressed gray-jacket might seem an odd thing to find on the sales floor at a store attached to a sports brand, but Y-3 is doing well enough that accessories have been added and freestanding stores are starting to appear around the world (although none in New York, as of fall 2006).
The Look
Yamamoto, ever a fan of convenience (his clothes always have generous pockets, a rarity in the not always practical fashion world) and new fabric technology, takes the basics of athleticwear, like tank tops, warm-up jackets, and sweatpants, and amplifies them with new proportions and colors.
The Designer
Yamamoto was born in Tokyo in 1943 and studied law before attending the prestigious Bunka Fukuso Gakuin design school. He presented his first womenswear collection in 1972 in Paris under the name Y’s, and he brought out a higher-priced signature label nine years later. He has several fragrances as part of his deal with Procter & Gamble, and his 2003 partnership with Adidas created the Y-3 label, one of the first and most successful of the designer-activewear marriages. In summer 2006, he signed a deal to design luggage and accessories for Italian luggage specialist Mandarina Duck, and his chief executive Keizo Tamoto wants to expand Yamamoto’s +Noir sportswear line and accessories.
In addition to the admiration of his peers (Donna Karan wears Yamamoto), he’s has acquired numerous awards. He’s the only Japanese designer to receive France’s Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres. Not only does Yamamoto dress a large chunk of the international arts community, he’s also collaborated on film projects with Wim Wenders, Takeshi Kitano, and Ryuichi Sakamoto, and done costumes for the Pina Bausch Company and the Wagner Opera.
Official Website
adidas.com/y-3Vera Wang
The Label
Vera Wang opened her salon at the Carlyle Hotel in New York City in 1990 to showcase her bridal collection. The idea emerged from Wang's frustration in bridal fashion when she'd planned for her own wedding the year before. Feeling the industry was steeped in too much tradition and not enough sophistication, Wang saw an opportunity. Today, Wang's vision has expanded to footwear, fragrance, eyewear, and home furnishings.
The Look
The Vera Wang name is synonymous with elegant, understated gowns constructed from the finest fabrics.
The Designer
A veteran of Vogue, where she was senior fashion editor for 16 years, Wang was lucky to have the ear of the world's top fashion designers when she opened her salon. Wang also served as a design director for Ralph Lauren.
Official Website
verawang.comValentino
The Label
Valentino is a master of elegance and opulence. In business since 1960, the Italian designer made his mark early on creating luxurious gowns with intricate detailing and tastefully body-conscious silhouettes. The fabrics tend to be both delicate and rich—laces, chiffons, and silk crepe, along with wool, leather, and suede. Valentino has long been popular among European royalty, American socialites, and celebrities. While his new creations get a great deal of attention—and requests, especially around red-carpet time—many also collect his vintage dresses, like the black gown with white piping Julia Roberts wore to accept her Oscar in 2001. The menswear collection is known for sharp, classic tailoring.
The Look
Jet set. Distinctively sexy and beautiful. You can never be too rich or too thin.
The Designer
It’s been Valentino all along.
Who Wears It
Valentino has been popular with famous, well-dressed women for more than four decades, including Jackie Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Halle Berry, Jennifer Garner, Julia Roberts, Jennifer Aniston, Naomi Watts, Claire Danes, Gwen Stefani, Lindsay Lohan, and Gwenyth Paltrow.
Official Website
valentino.comUnited Bamboo
Miho Aoki & Thuy PhamThe Label
Fashion collectives can be tricky terrain, with clashing personalities and design aesthetics. But Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham seem to have struck a perfect balance in United Bamboo, launched in 1998. Once dubbed a “hipster” label for the downtown crowd, the line has certainly grown past those boundaries and evolved into one of New York’s most popular, forward-thinking collections. This expansion can be attributed in no small part to Aoki and Pham’s innovative way with pattern, details, and fabrics. The duo is also constantly delving into the underground art world, working with various artists and musicians on “art projects” like T-shirts printed with provocative cartoons or compilation CDs produced by their indie music label United Acoustic Recording.
The Look
Cross-cultural, conscientious art project gone wearable and covetable.
The Designer
Japanese-born Miho Aoki (who graduated from New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology) met Vietnamese-born Thuy Pham (who studied architecture at Cooper Union) when she worked for him at another design collective, Bernadette Corp. United Bamboo made its runway debut during the New York fall 2004 Fashion Week.
Official Website
unitedbamboo.comThierry Mugler
The Look
Mugler usually designs 2-piece outfits with a jacket feature, full sleeves, masculine cuts, emphasizing the waist and hips to create a perfect body.
He often uses solid colours as a sculptor would. He often uses pointed angles on collars, hems, sleeves, waist and hips.
He does use a lot of prints but at times uses patches of leather. He uses less of accessories and headgear. He tries to create drama into his clothing but usually the devil features, example gelled hair in the shape of horns.
Mugler also designs clothes for men but often uses bright colours for them like orange, yellow, etc. which is unusual for men's clothing.
Fabrics: Jersey, vinyl, Lycra, Gingham and Leather are his favourites.
He says "Fashion is a movie. Every morning when you get dressed, you direct yourself". He has earned a reputation for misogyny which he dislikes and says "when people say that my clothes are against women, it is because they are not easy to wear. You have to be in a good shape to wear my clothes and I like to design for such women - the clothes are more beautiful that way."
Mugler's quest is always to shape a perfect woman but underneath this glamorous exterior, his clothes are very well-structured and engineered, and of course sexy.
The Designer
Mugler's early training was as a ballet dancer, but he also studied design and created garments for friends at the same time. He moved to Paris in 1970 and worked as a window-dresser, designing clothing as a side job. He launched his first line Café de Paris in 1973,[1] and founded his own label for women two years later, to be followed by designs for men in 1978.
Mugler's work over the next two decades had a style that was very much of its time: it was strong, angular, sometimes almost cruel. Shoulders were wide and padded; waists were wasp-like. Prints were banished: Mugler's clothes came in solid, dominating colours. Collars had exaggerated points, or flamelike cutouts. The insect kingdom was a constant influence, as were the ladies and gentlemen of film noir. In his most extreme runway garments, PVC was often used, as were space and robot themes. Mugler's fashion house did not survive the 1990s, though vintage versions of his more wearable clothes are still popular on auction sites like eBay.
1997 saw the start of a lucrative partnership with the French cosmetics and skincare company Clarins, the most well-known Thierry Mugler fragrances being Angel (the most popular perfume in France) and A-men fragrances.[1] The Thierry Mugler company is now known best for its perfume division: the couture division was closed in 2003, and all Thierry Mugler ready-to-wear is now produced under licence agreements, as is a line of eyewear.
Meanwhile, Mugler turned to other artistic interests. He published two books featuring his fashion designs and photography, controversially inspired by Stalinist propaganda:[1] Thierry Mugler (1988) and Fashion Fetish Fantasy (1998). In 1992, Mugler directed the video for George Michael's "Too Funky," featuring a parade of Mugler fashions including the famous motorcycle dress.
More recently, Mugler collaborated with Cirque du Soleil on its 2003 show "Zumanity" at the New York New York Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas. Notably, this is Cirque du Soleil's first show for mature audiences.
Official Website
www.thierrymugler.comTommy Hilfiger
Tommy HilfigerOfficial Website
tommy.comMonday, March 31, 2008
Stella McCartney
The daughter of ex-Beatle Paul McCartney and his wife Linda, Stella McCartney, born in 1972, hardly had a chance to be ordinary. At just 15, she was already working with fashion heavyweight Christian Lacroix on his first couture collection. She later went on to study fashion design in London, garnering plenty of attention at her graduation show for employing friends Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss as models. After launching her own line, McCartney signed on as chief designer at Chloe, the French couture house. Her collection of delicate, feminine clothing was positively received by the fashion world, boosting Chloe's sales and reputation and proving that McCartney wasn't just gliding by on her name. She left Chloe, however, in 2001 to develop her own label as part of the Gucci group, and opened her New York store in 2002. McCartney's line blends frilly elements like pastel silks and ribbons with street-worthy rocker accents, like slasher-tees and industrial zippers. All clothes are animal-free, including the shoes, which are outfitted from a leather-like plant derivative.
Official Website
www.stellamccartney.comSass & Bide
Heidi Middleton & Sarah-Jane Clarke The Label
The Austrailian duo named their label after their nicknames: Heidi Middleton (the brains behind the design) is Bide, while Sarah-Jane Clarke (in charge of business operations) goes by Sass. Their high-end line launched in Australia in 2001 and has since sold millions in the States. They've also debuted a very-high end, limited edition sub-collection, Wolfnation, for rich girls who like to kick butt.
The Look
Their motto is "don't look too pretty." Imperfection can be much more stylish than looking overly-polished and coordinated. They achieve this by mixing "polar opposites, like a beautiful sari with distressed leather straps, sequined tops with denim." Hence their brave look, which captures the fancy of so many empowered, fashionable women who love a sexy style—the more contradictory the better. Look for their highly-coveted denim collection with the notoroius two-inch zippers (the most basic fetch $125) and body-hugging jackets, corsets and minidresses.
Official Website
Shin Choi
The creations of Korean-born designer Shin Choi have been described as having a New York City energy that challenges traditional styling with cutting-edge details. Her collection's appeal is a product of Choi's modern, clean aesthetic and sharp eye for shape and texture. Choi studied at the Parson's School of Design, and in 1988 launched her own ready-to-wear collection under the name Coleridge & Co. In 1999, the line took on Choi's own name and caters to the young designer market.
Who Wears It
Julia Roberts, Susan Sarandon, Helen Hunt, Oprah Winfrey, Katie Couric
Official Website
shinchoi.comRock & Republic
Michael BallThe Label
Rock and Republic is an American high-end fashion and jeans brand founded by fashion mogul Michael Ball in 2002. The company is owned by Andrea Bernholtz.Rock & Republic has clothing lines for men, women, and children. The brand also produces maternity wear. Although the Rock & Republic collection includes all types of clothing, the brand is best known for its denim. Women's shoes have recently been introduced to the collection with the majority of styles being stilettos and wedges. Eyewear and handbags are scheduled to hit the stores by the end of spring 2007.
Rock & Republic is sold in high-end department stores such as Nordstrom, Bloomingdale's, Neiman Marcus, Holt Renfrew, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Harrods, and Harvey Nichols.
Rock & Republic sponsors a professional cycling team named Rock Racing, which is noted for its constantly changing team kit as well as its Cadillac Escalade team car. Rock Racing has secured a number of successful cyclists for the 2008 season.
The Look
The brand's name is explained on the company website:
Rock & Republic means edgy, progressive design inspired by Rock & Roll and with an emphasis on modern silhouettes and a sleek fit. Each piece in the collection is designed for sexy, confident men and women who live the lifestyle and really understand the look.
The Designer
Prior to starting the company, Ball was an avid cyclist and gained design experience by creating his cycling team's uniforms.
Rock & Republic is well known for their line designed by Victoria Beckham, called 'VB Rocks'.
Official Website
rockandrepublic.comRocawear
Jay-Z and Damon DashPart of the Roc-A-Fella empire founded by Jay-Z and Damon Dash, Rocawear was launched in 1999, during Jay-Z's Hard Knock Life Tour. Based around streetwear staples like knit tracksuits, dark denim, leather bomber jackets, and fur-lined hoodies, Rocawear was originally targeted to young men but now includes a women's line as well. The label has been popularized by superstar rappers like Jay-Z, Method Man, and DMX, but Dash insists that Rocawear is keeping it real. "In our music, we talk about what we are," says the 30-year-old, Harlem-born music mogul. "We want to make clothes that help paint that picture."
Official Website
rocawear.comRoberto Cavalli
The Look
Cavalli is synonymous with glam and rock. Look to Cavalli for color, and lots of it. A genius when it comes to leather, his designs are wild, sexy, erotic, and fluid. His materials vary (leather, denim, silk, feathers) but the results are often unforgettable.
The Designer
Roberto Cavalli grew up in Florence, surrounded by art and fashion — which should come as no surprise to anyone familiar with his artistry. He showed his first collection in 1972 and has since grown into a fashion force that has spanned decades and continents. To date, Cavalli has done it all—from menswear, to womenswear, to children's clothing, to designs for the home.
Who Wears It
Kimora Lee Simmons, Beyonce Knowles, Jon Bon Jovi, Alicia Keyes, Bono, Jennifer Lopez, Lenny Kravitz, Halle Berry, Mischa Barton, Lindsay Lohan, Alicia Keys
Official Website
robertocavalli.comRalph Lauren
The Label
Since its inception in 1968, Ralph Lauren has become a powerful brand that’s put its stamp on everything from tuxedos to tennis uniforms. It all started with the famous Polo shirt, which Lauren created to embody the spirit of American aristocracy (something the middle-class boy from the Bronx only imagined while growing up). After launching his collection with a wide tie that became a must-have among New York's young and stylish, the designer expanded his repertoire to include the famous polos, then women's wear, formalwear and a bigger selection of sports clothes. After a brief setback in the late-1980s, when casual preppy attire was replaced by slick business suits by Armani and Dolce & Gabbana, Lauren struck back with licensing deals for fragrances and home lines, plus the Ralph Lauren blue label, which quickly became an empire on its own for classic, elegant eveningwear. Purple and Black Labels followed, and Ralph Lauren's sporty Polo brand was soon balanced by fancier, more expensive lines offering silk ball gowns and six-ply cashmere cardigans. Today, Lauren's formula for creating effortlessly chic style is a hot commodity—and often imitated.
The Look
Sweater-tied prep school style for the Gatsby in all of us.
The Designer
Born in the Bronx, the young Ralph Lauren would work weekends to earn money for new clothes. After receiving a business degree from the City College of New York, Lauren worked as a glove salesman, and used his company's factory (and a $5000 loan) to produce his first line of wide ties, sold under the label Polo Fashion. When the ties took off, he invested his profits back into the company and began the larger collection of sportswear that eventually spawned his empire. Lauren has made his business a family affair, with wife Ricky and son David both intimately involved in the brand's day-to-day operations. Worth an estimated $1 billion, the designer remains the creative director of his entire brand, which now includes linens, cosmetics and even a line of house paint.
Official Website
polo.comPrada & Miu Miu
Miuccia PradaThe Label
In 1913, Mario Prada established a family-run leather-goods company in Milan. But the label’s foray beyond luggage didn’t happen until Mario’s granddaughter Miuccia Prada took the helm in 1978, with her husband Patrizio Bertelli taking over the business aspect. Prada made its official ready-to-wear launch on the Milan runway in1989. Since then, the label and its now-iconic upside-down triangle symbol have been at the front of fashion-forward design, influencing runways around the globe. Today, the company continues to conquer new territory, including menswear, childrenswear, a sportswear, and myriad beauty ventures. Every aspect of Prada, from the buttons of a coat to the design of its New York flagship—the famous brainchild of architect Rem Koolhaas—illustrates the careful eye and deliberate study of Miuccia Prada.
The Look
Old-world Italian luxury wrapped in forward-thinking design.
The Designer
With a Ph.D. in political science and as a member of the Communist party, Miuccia Prada was a reluctant and seemingly ill-suited heir. Nevertheless, her flawless inner compass for style has made Prada a household name and one of the most aspirational labels around. Design-wise, she can as easily work a bohemian theme as she can smart, granny chic or utilitarian sobriety—and she usually does it before anyone else.
Official Website
Saturday, March 29, 2008
Paul Smith
The Label
London-based designer Paul Smith has been turning “proper” men’s and women’s fashion on their proverbial ears since he abandoned his dreams of being a competitive cyclist and started his own label in 1976. The designer is known for taking classic school boy, school girl, and tomboy looks and having a little fun with them, in the form of super-bright stripes, loud prints, contrasting colors and fabrics, and extra sharp tailoring. He made his mark first with his men’s collection, but added women’s soon afterward, and now has 12 different Paul Smith brands, including accessories, shoes, and furniture. It’s all very English, and very whimsical at once.
The Look
School girl with a sense of humor. Sexy Tomboy. Urban dandy for men.
The Designer
Paul Smith is the designer of his own brand and has been since 1976.
Who Wears It
Parker Posey, violinist Vanessa Mae, Jude Law, Matthew McConaughey, David Bowie
Official Website
www.paulsmith.co.ukPhat Farm
Kimora Lee Simmons and Russell Simmons Hip-hop mogul Russell Simmons, best known for his record label, Def Jam, founded the Phat Farm clothing line in 1992, with the label's first retail store opening on Prince Street a year later. Simmons's designs are derived from the styles of the street: Baggy jeans, sweaters with the company logo writ large, and hooded sweatshirts are in abundance, as are urban accessories like nylon backpacks, baseball hats, and old-school sneakers. Simmons's supermodel wife, Kimora Lee, launched the Baby Phat line for women in 2000, after a few specially made baby-tees caused a huge sensation on the runways; a children's line followed soon after.
Official Website
phatfarm.com
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